I am a little obsessed with styling the pegboard in my office and my Instagram followers have become familiar with my habit of giving it a makeover. I like to fill it with essential items, pretty things and inspirational quotes. It helps to make my office a happy place to work. My pegboard recieves lots of ‘oohs and ahhs’ when i post pics of it on social media, which is why i have put together this easy peasy tutorial today. It looks impressive, but it is so easy to do and a great way to keep all of your bits and bobs sorted…..perfect for crafters in particular. Okay, here’s what you’ll need –
sheet of pegboard (available at hardware stores and it’s cheap!)
some baskets for storing bigger items (i found mine at bunnings)
some pegboard hooks (these should be available where you buy your pegboard)
sturdy rope and wall hooks (although you may prefer a different method of attachment)
Give a vintage suitcase a new life with an easy fabric makeover
Today I’m going to show you an easy and affordable way to make old vintage suitcases pretty by giving them a makeover with fabric and glue. Vintage suitcases make fabulous storage for blankets and craft supplies and you can find them cheaply at op shop or thrift shops. Their vintage brown exterior compliments neutral settings well, but can look old and dirty in bright or modern settings. I have owned these 3 suitcases for years, so I thought it was time to pretty them up and makes them useful in my craft office.
Three old brown vintage suitcases found at my local op shop.
I gave two of these suitcases a couple of coats of Annie Sloan chalk paint, but I wanted to cover the third suitcase in fabric. This turned out to be my favourite! Here is a little pictorial guide of how I made it pretty.
I like to start at the bottom. Give the bottom of the suitcase a generous coat of mod podge in preparation for the fabric.
Lay the fabric over the top of the suitcase and press down firmly. Don’t worry if the Mod Podge soaks through a little as this will make it extra secure.
Pull of corners of the fabric into a peak at the corners in preparation for trimming.
Cut through the peak you formed to divide the fabric. Cut off excess fabric.
Secure the sides with plenty of mod Podge making sure to press down firmly.
Press fabric firmly against the Mod Podge to secure. Trim away any excess and secure the corners that you trimmed previously. Fold the top of the fabric over and secure it inside the suitcase.
Ensure that any joins in the fabric are well secured with Mod Podge
Cut carefully around any obstacles (latches, handles etc) with a blade. It doesn’t have to be perfect!
The vintage latch revealed provides a rustic contrast against the pretty pink fabric. Repeat this process for the lid of the suitcase. I found it easier to work this two pieces of fabric – one for the top and one for the bottom.
I secured fabric to the inside of the suitcases too, to make sure they were as pretty as the outside.
When the entire suitcase is covered with fabric, give it all a good coat of mod Podge to protect and seal the fabric. This will dry clear.
Ta Da! All done! Now you have pretty and practical storage for your blankets and craft supplies
I discovered fabric stickers a little while ago and fell in love with them. They are so pretty and practical, which are my favourite two words when it comes to craft. I found these gorgeous crafty items online at Dailylike. Have you heard of them? I promise you this is an unsponsored post! I just adore the Dailylike store. You MUST visit their online store for a sticky beak. It’s a crafter and gift wrappers dream….i really had to restrict myself to items i needed….yeah, that’s right, i NEEDED fabric stickers. My first fabric sticker project was to cover my iPad. Actually, i covered my iPad cover. It was bright pink and while i like pink, i wanted something a little more unique and i really, really don’t like paying for expensive iPad covers. And this way, when i get bored of this design i can just recover it again, at the fraction of the price of a new iPad cover. I had a few sheets of stickers to play with so i prettied up this boring clipboard and attached it to my pegboard. I change my pegboard often and add new inspirational quotes or work related lists (boring) to my clipboards, so this will be perfect for when it is hanging bare in between new attachments.Fabric stickers are ideal for covering daggy old containers and glass jars. The oval container was the packaging of a gift i received from a friend. I didn’t want to throw it away, so i covered it in matching fabric and now i’m keeping all my pens and pencils stored in it. I also dressed up an empty glass jar that i use for storing my paint brushes. With some of the smaller scraps i cut out shapes and decorated some of my paper bags. There are so many uses for this versatile craft item. And i love that i was able to use the scraps for smaller projects, so that there wasn’t any waste. Yay!Finally, i used some of the fabric sticker tape to wrap a loaf of banana bread for a friend. I can’t wait to use more of this tape in my gift wrapping. Please make sure you visit Dailylike and check out their stock – great products and super fast postage.
Making your own Christmas wreath is a great craft project to help celebrate the festive season. This tutorial is for a christmas wreath made from ribbon poinsettias. These ribbon poinsettias are easy to make and look beautiful when made from glossy satin ribbon. Here’s what you will need –
satin ribbon – 5cm wide
a wreath base – of whatever material you like
a hot glue gun
embellishments – bells, bead (optional)
For each ribbon poinsettia you will need to cut three strips of ribbon approximately 15cm long. Cut the ends of the ribbon to form points – you will need to do this for both ends. Fold each strip of ribbon like a concertina: fold in half and then fold the outer edges in opposite directions. Your ribbon should look like a bow tie (see the image above)As you fold each strip thread them onto a pin to hold them in place until you are ready to secure them with wire. Take a piece of wire, also 15cm long and fold over so it resembles a hair pin. Put the wire over the centre of the three strips of ribbon and twist a couple of times at the back to make it secure. You can now remove the pin. Cross over your wires – this is the hardest part. If you look at the image above you can see the wire is attached in three different directions: one straight across (the first step of attaching the wire) and two in diagonally opposite directions. To make your first diagonal, take one of the ends of the wire from the back, separate your ‘petals’ and take the wire up through one pair of divided petals and down through the opposite pair of divided petals. Take the second end of the wire from the back and repeat the same steps on the opposite side. With both wire ends now at the back, give them a final couple of twists to make your flower secure. You can now play with your petals until you have achieved a look that you are happy with. If you want to add beads or bells to the centre of your ribbon flower, simply add the embellishment at the wiring step.
The rest of the ribbon is completed in the same way as the plain ribbon flowers. I made a lot of ribbon flowers in a short amount of time – enough for two wreaths. It is up to you how you choose to attach your ribbon poinsettias to make a wreath. I added my ribbon flowers to a gold wire hoop using my hot gue gun. A similar method could be used regardless of what you choose for your wreath base.
Here are my two Christmas wreaths hanging in our rumpus room. And there’s no reason you can’t make these in other colours and use them as gift toppers or hair bows. Join me on Instagram for other Christmas craft activities.
Last week I was invited to run a Christmas craft activity for some local carers in our community. Carers are people who look after a friend or family member that is sick, disabled, elderly or mentally ill and unable to cope without support. Most carers are unpaid, work very hard and deal with high levels of stress. They can be any age, come from all walks of life and varying cultures, but one thing they do have in common is that they need a break sometimes.
Paper Cone Wreath made from Vintage Sheet Music
I am extremely enthusiastic about using craft as a form of therapy and tag of lot of my Instagram posts this way – #craftastherapy As a few of you know, I turned to craft in a massive way during 2013 as my mother neared the end of her battle with brain cancer. For me, it was a way to shield myself from the stress when it was getting too much. I’ve always loved craft but #craftastherapy began for me with my first Paper Cone Wreath. You can find an updated tutorial here.
Paper Craft – silhouette heart and Vintage Music Paper Cone Wreath
It seemed fitting that my first Carers Craft Group should start with a Christmas version of my paper cone wreath. The construction is identical to my standard wreath, but a gap is left in the centre to glue Christmas decorations. There are only three rounds, which makes it quicker and easier to construct.
I am really happy with how they turned out and they all looked beautiful hung together in a cluster on this wall.
Please come and join me on instagram and hashtag your craft projects as #craftastherapy I would really love to see any craft activities that you have created to help get you through difficult times.
If you are looking for a cheap and easy Christmas craft project, these air dry, white clay tags are quick and fun to make. Like all of my favourite craft projects, these tags are simple, affordable and look great. All you need for this Christmas project is – DAS air dry clay (i bought mine from office works), christmas cookie cutters, a straw, a rolling pin and your choice of thread or ribbon to decorate them. I used some old X-ray films as a mat for rolling out the clay and drying the tags. They work well as the clay doesn’t stick to the surface and they clean up really easily. So, if you have some old X-ray film around, i can highly recommend using it as a mat for this project. Open your packet of clay and break off about a third. I like to work with a third at a time because it’s easier to handle and the clay is less likely to dry out if you can work with it quickly. It will look a little grey initially, but don’t worry, once it is dry it will turn white. Roll out your clay until it is nice and smooth on both sides. You don’t want to see any lines or bumps in the clay, or your tags may crack and break as they dry. I like my tags to be about 1/2 a cm thick. Once you are happy that your surface is smooth, press the cookie cutter into the clay until it cuts all the way through. Push the straw into the clay, twist and pull out the centre, leaving a clean hole for you to thread your string or ribbon through later. Leave them to dry for up to four days. As they dry you can see them turning a lighter and brighter shade of white. You will know when they are dry when there are no more grey patches left on either the front or the back of the tag. Here are some of my finished tags, threaded with jute string. Ribbon or bakers twine looks quite effective too. And don’t they look great hanging off our stick Christmas tree. My family and i made this tree from sticks that have fallen on our property. It was a great family bonding activity and I LOVE how it turned out. The clay tags compliment the rough sticks perfectly. These tags can be used to decorate Christmas gifts too. The recipients name can be written on the clay once it is dry, or even stamped into the wet clay to leave an impression. I will be making a batch of these every year to attach to gifts. I may even get a bit more adventurous next year with paint and stamping, but for this Christmas i’m loving the chalky, matt finish of the plain clay tags. It really is starting to look a lot like Christmas around my home.
I thought it was time I created an improved tutorial for my paper cone wreaths. You can find my original tutorial made from vintage sheet music here. These paper wreaths get a lot of attention on my instagram account and they’re not that hard to make. I was delighted last week when I found an old atlas from 1965 for $2 in an op shop. The colours that adorned the pages were so beautiful that I knew it would be my prettiest wreath yet. Of course, you can use whatever paper you prefer – sheet music, golden books, a dictionary or even Christmas paper would all work well. Here’s what you’ll need –
double sided tape
hot glue gun and sticks
lacquer suitable for paper
Step 1 – cut up your paper. I divided the atlas pages into quarters, measuring 11 x 14cm, so this will be quite a small wreath, but you can use whatever size you prefer. The bigger the page, the bigger the wreath.Step 2 – stick a piece of double sided tape across the bottom of the paper. You can see in the picture that it doesn’t need to go all the way across, but it’s important that it covers the far right corner of the paper.Step 3 – take your paper and bring the top lefthand corner across the front. Then wrap the top righthand corner around and stick in place to form a cone.Step 4 – fold under about a 1/4 of the bottom of the cone and then staple it into place.Step 5 – cut off the excess paper. This reduces bulk when you glue your cones together.Step 6 – make around 60-70 cones. The number of cones needed depends on the size of your wreath.
Step 7 – cut a circle out of cardboard. My circle measures 14cm across.Step 8 – using a hot glue gun, start sticking your cones to the circle of cardboard. I like to place cones marking four quarters and then fill in the gaps with equal numbers of cones. This helps to create a uniform and symmetrical wreath. In the picture below you can see the first round completed.Step 9 – continue to attach your paper cones round by round. The number of rounds depends on the size of your wreath.
Getting close now…
Step 10 – once you reach the centre of the wreath, you may find it tricky to fit the paper cones in place. Don’t be afraid to cut more length off your cones to help them to fit into place. Ta da! All finished.
Step 11 – I like to spray my completed wreaths with a couple of coats of lacquer to make the paper more durable.
I was really excited to finally hang my DIY tufted headboard on the wall in the navy room at RedAgape Guesthouse. You can find the tutorial here if you are keen to make one for yourself. It is a challenging project but well worth the time and energy, as it is so cost effective when compared with buying a new headboard. You can find more images of RedAgape Guesthouse in my Instagram feed or my FaceBook page.
I have just completed my DIY diamond tufted headboard and it looks great! Following is a tutorial and recount of my emotional journey 😉 that lead to the creation of a tufted headboard that is a fraction of the price of a bought one. I won’t lie, this has been my most challenging DIY yet. Don’t be fooled by the feminine curves of the tufting or the inviting soft plumps of foam, this project was a bitch! That said, it was so worth it!! I’m so relieved that it turned out well and my button to button method (explained below) worked beautifully for a beginner at upholstery. I challenge you to give this a go! It’s so rewarding. Anyway, here we go –
You will need –
Pegboard cut to size. The measurements will depend on what style and size you need.
3inch foam the same size as the pegboard
Batting – the same size as the pegboard with an additional 6inches all the way around
Fabric – same amount as the batting
Extra fabric for buttons
Upholstery thread – NOT regular cotton (trust me it won’t work)
Button making supplies – I needed 51
Buttons for backing – 51
Upholstery needleStep 1 – mark out where you want the tufts to be on the pegboard by circling around the holes. My tufts were about 6inches apart but you may prefer to have them closer or further apart depending on the look you want to achieve. Start marking the holes in the centre of the board so that the tufts are symmetrical. I drew up the pattern of diamonds when I was finished so that I could see they were all positioned correctly. Step 2 – lie the pegboard on the foam and using a sharpie draw through the holes to mark the pattern onto the foam. You should be able to see the marks clearly on the foam. Step 3 – using an old knife cut out a square section of foam where marked. Don’t be scared to cut out a decent amount of foam as this will make the tufting process easier and make sure the hole goes all the way through. This is the secret to nice deep tufts. Step 4 – layer up your headboard : pegboard, foam, batting and then fabric. Make sure the marked side of the pegboard is facing out at the back (so you can see where the tufts will be) and that the batting and fabric are nice and smooth with no bubbles. Step 5 – using the extra fabric make enough buttons to complete your tufts. This process takes and while, so be patient. Warning – your thumbs will be sore….very sore.Step 6 – let the tufting begin!! I’ve seen some tutorials where a staple gun is used to secure the upholstery thread in place. I tried it and I didn’t like it….at all. I found it difficult and really messy looking, so I tried a new method using some old buttons. I’m calling it the ‘button to button’ method. The pretty fabric covered button is on display at the front and any old four hole button secures the tuft at the back. Thread your upholstery needle, double it over and tie the ends in a knot. Thread the needle through the four hole button and then through the middle of the two threads. I went around a few times for added strength.Step 7 – start at the top in the centre and work your way out to the edges. Insert the needle through the marked hole at the back and out the front through the foam, batting and fabric. Pull your thread tight so the button at the back is over the hole. At the front, ease the fabric into a point and then attached your fabric button. Step 8 – Take the needle back though the foam and pegboard. Don’t go through the exact same position or your fabric might tear. I tried to leave about 1/2 cm between the exit and entry point. Sounds easy right! Wrong. sometimes the needle went straight through and out the exact hole and other times it took an eternity to find the right route back through the foam. Patience is the key. I was pretty patient, surprisingly patient (especially given I was premenstrual) up until the last couple of rows. Then the cursing started….and it didn’t stop until the last button. Thank goodness the kids were at school. Step 9 – Alright, once your needle is back out through the same hole it entered it’s time to secure your tuft. Apply pressure to your fabric button while pulling tight on the upholstery thread. Insert the needle under the thread in the button and knot tightly. I repeated this about three times for each button to make sure it was properly secure. Stand back and admire. Step 10 – Now repeat steps 6,7,8 and 9 about 51 times (it felt like about 1000 times). It’s agony….really. I must have stabbed myself a hundred times with the needle, the thread almost cut a slice out of my hand and all of my muscles ached from wresting with the foam and buttons. I totally underestimated how physical this task would be. When that last button was secured I’m pretty sure I heard a choir of angels singing and I may have cried a little. Post tufting euphoria! Cursing over. Happy days! Step 11 – staple the fabric firmly over the pegboard making sure your corners are nice and tidy. Try to keep the tension the same all the way around. Trim off the excess fabric and batting. I’m planning on covering the entire back surface with a piece of felt or fleece to stop the buttons rubbing on the wall once it’s hung. Here are a couple of shots in my room at home. The headboard will go to the guesthouse next week and I’ll be sure to post some pics of it at it’s new home. I’m convinced now that I want to make one for my bedroom at home, but I’m going to wait about 6 months, maybe have some counselling and physiotherapy before I started the next one.