Crochet Granny Square Skull Sweater Pattern

Granny Square Skull Sweater

Learn how to make a unique and stylish Granny Square Skull Sweater with our free crochet pattern. Perfect for crocheters looking for a mix of traditional crocheting with a modern twist. Size-inclusive and fun to make! This wonderful sweater brings together traditional granny squares with a modern skull design, making it a standout choice for all ages and seasons. With a design that allows for ‘puffy’ sleeves and a relaxed fit, the sweater is as comfortable as it is stylish. Finished with a ribbed border and cuffs, giving it a polished edge and neat silhouette.

Granny Square Skull Sweater

Free Crochet Granny Square Skull Sweater Pattern

Materials and Notions

  • Black worsted weight yarn: About 500 yards for size small.
  • White worsted weight yarn: About 350 yards for size small.
  • Worsted weight yarn in choice colors: About 360 yards per color for size small.
  • Crochet hook: Size H-8 (5mm).
  • Tapestry needle, scissors, blocking board, steamer, buttons (optional).

Abbreviations

  • Sc – Single Crochet
  • Sl St – Slip Stitch
  • Ch – Chain
  • Hdc – Half Double Crochet
  • Dc – Double Crochet
  • * – Repeat
  • Sl St2tog blo – Slip stitch two together in the back loop only
  • Sc2tog – Single crochet two together
  • Sc blo – Single crochet in back loop only
  • FO – Fasten Off
  • St(s) – Stitch(es)

Pattern

  • 1. Create a magic circle, Starting with white yarn (or skull yarn of your choice).
  • 2. Round 1: In a magic circle, ch 2, 9 dc into the magic circle, ch 5, dc into magic circle, ch 3, dc into the magic circle, tighten circle, ch 5, join with a sl st at 2nd ch in beginning of round.
  • 3. Round 2: ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, 6 sc in ch 5 space of previous round, sl st into ch 3 space, ch 2, 2 dc into ch 3 space, ch 2, sl st into ch 3 space, 6 sc in ch 5 space, sl st into ch 1 at start of the round to join, FO.
  • 4. Switch to background color.

Continue…

  • 5. Round 3: Starting in the second sc of the previous round, do a standing dc ch 3 dc 2 in the same st, dc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, dc in next st, dc 2 ch 3 dc 2 in next st (this creates the corner st), dc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, create a corner st in next st (dc 2 ch 3 dc 2 in same st), dc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, sc in the space between the last dc and ch 2 of the previous round, dc in next st, create a corner st in next st (dc 2 ch 3 dc 2 in same stitch), hdc in next 4 sts, dc in next st.
  • 6. Round 4: ch 3 (counts as a dc – or use altdc if you prefer), *create corner st in ch 3 space of previous round (dc 2 ch 3 dc 2), dc in next 9 sts* repeat a total of three times, create last corner st in last ch 3 space, dc in next 8 sts, sl st to top of the starting ch (or in altdc) to join round, FO.

Assemble the Sweater

  • 1. Once you have all of the squares made and blocked, it’s time to assemble the garment pieces. An invisible joining method to connect all the granny squares, starting with the back and front pieces, then moving to the sleeves.
  • 3. Weave in ends and blocks to lay flat and for uniform size.
  • 4. Now that all of the individual garment pieces are assembled, align them flat so the back panel, front panels, and sleeves can be aligned and folded in half along the shoulder to be seamed together. Seam the panels together.
  • 5. The final seam to connect the pieces is the inseam. Folding the sweater in half along the shoulders and the sleeves, follow along the diagram below to sew each side and sleeve together. Sleeve 1 and side 1 can be seamed continuously, as can sleeve 2 and side 2.

Ribbed Border

  • 1. Round 1: beginning in the right bottom corner of the front panel with work facing up, sc ch 1 sc 2 in the ch 3 space.
    working up the front panel, around the neck, and down the left front panel, sc in each st and in every ch 3 space.
    Sc 2 ch 1 sc 2 in the bottom corner of the left front panel. Along the bottom of the sweater, sc in each st and every ch 3 space until you reach the start of the round.
    Sc once more in the ch 3 space, then slip stitch to join. Do not cut yarn.
    Turn work so you start your rows along the bottom of the sweater.
  • 2. Row 1: ch 7 (or however thick you’d like your ribbing to be), skip the first ch on the hook, then sc remaining ch sts (6 sts).

Continue…

  • 3. Row 2: in round 1, sl st2tog blo, then turn your work to work back up the new row. Sc blo the scs from the previous row (6 sts).
  • 4. Row 3: ch 1 then turn your work, sc blo each sc from row 2 (6 sts).
  • 5. Repeat rows 2 and 3 across the entire bottom of the sweater, ending on row 2. Do not cut yarn. Turn your work to work up the front panels.
  • 6. Row 4: ch 7 (or however thick your ribbing was for row 1), skip the first ch on hook, then sc remaining ch sts (6 sts).
  • 7. Row 5: sl st2tog blo from last row 2 (then round 1 and row 1 when moving around the panels), turn your work to work back up the previous row. Sc blo the scs from previous (6 sts).
  • 8. Row 6: ch 1 then turn your work, sc blo each sc from row 2 (6 sts).
  • 9. Repeat rows 5 and 6 around the entire front panels and neck, down to the end of row 1. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cuffs

  • 1. Round 1: starting at the inseam of the sleeve, sc 2tog around the entire sleeve. This will bring the sleeve to be about 8″ in circumference. Slst to first sc in the round to join, do not cut yarn.
  • 2. Row 1: ch 7 (or however thick you’d like your ribbing to be), skip the first ch on the hook, then sc remaining ch sts (6 sts).
  • 3. Row 2: in round 1, sl st2tog blo, then turn your work to work back up the new row. Sc blo the scs from the previous row (6 sts).
  • 4. Row 3: ch 1 then turn your work, sc blo each sc from row 2 (6 sts).
  • 5. Repeat rows 2 and 3 around the cuff until both sides meet. Fasten off leaving a long tail and seam the ends of the cuff together. Weave in ends.

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